Sunday, October 21, 2007

my favourite places to eat in Istanbul :-0 xo



I am still unpacking 4 weeks after returning from Istanbul. This morning I came across handwipes from some of my favorite places to eat in Istanbul.

I would like to register them here for future reference...

Anzer Sofrası in Sarıyer - fresh Black Sea cuisine
Çiya in Kadıköy - meze a plenty
Beşiktaş Balık Lokantası in Beşiktaş - Balik Kofte :-)
Canım Ciğerim in Beyoğlu - I love your liver...

I will be here all day if I carry on listing my recommends.

Saturday, October 13, 2007

Last night at the Roundhouse - Glenn Branca's SYMPHONY No.13: Hallucination City


Glenn Branca performance, originally uploaded by louisemakesstuff.

Last night was SUPERB!

From the Roundhouse:
Frieze Music in association with Live Nation GLENN BRANCA SYMPHONY No.13: Hallucination City

Avant-garde composer and guitarist, Glenn Branca performs here as part of The Frieze Art Fair - Frieze Music presentation for 2007. There will be a performance of Glenn Branca’s epic Symphony No.13: Hallucination City for 100 electric guitars.

A piece of transformative beauty, it has been described by the Village Voice as “Branca’s most impressive work ever.” Glenn Branca, who started out as a member of NY punk outfit Theoretical Girls, began composing for electric guitar ensembles in the early 80s. His ensembles have featured members of Sonic Youth, Swans and Helmet.

Hallucination City was premiered in the World Trade Centre Plaza, New York, in 2001 to overwhelming public acclaim.

Symphony No.13 is in four movements; March, Anthem, Drive and Vengeance. Glenn Branca’s music is not conventional in any sense and in this piece the guitars use the basis of only two chords. Players need to be able to read basic staff notation and have the ability to follow a part measure for measure.

The playing technique includes plenty of double strumming and chording. Over the next few months Branca will closely supervise the recruitment of the 100 guitarists who will all be unpaid volunteers. Interested players, who must own their own guitar and small sized amp, can contact Branca at glenn@glennbranca.com, marking their email LONDON. In the run up to the performance those chosen to take part will be sent sections of the piece every few weeks to learn but the composer stipulates that these do not need to be memorized. The volunteers must be available for two day-long rehearsals and, of course, the event itself. Branca’s music has been used for film and performance by a diverse group of internationally renowned companies including; Alvin Ailey Company, Peter Greenaway, San Francisco Ballet, Netherlands Dance Theater and The Wooster Group.

Wednesday, September 12, 2007

Paul Chan at Antrepo 3


Paul Chan at Antrepo 3, originally uploaded by louisemakesstuff.

This projection by Paul Chan is in Antrepo 3 at the Istanbul Biennial. It is part of Dream House - it is a really fabulous piece, I could have watched it for hours. I have posted loads of pictures on my flickr site.

Paul Chan was born in Hong Kong in 1973 and lives and works in New York. He received an MFA from Bard College in 2002, a BFA from the Art Institute of Chicago in 1996, and is represented by Greene Naftali, New York. Recent solo exhibitions include Serpentine Museum (London), Stedelijk Museum (Amsterdam, 2007), The Fabric Workshop and Museum (Philadelphia, 2006-07), Portikus (2006), Galleria Massimo De Carlo (Milan, 2006), Institute of Contemporary Art (Boston, 2005), UCLA Hammer Museum (Los Angeles, 2005).

Saturday, September 01, 2007

“The Public Turn in Contemporary Art”



Yesterday I went to my first Biennial event held at santralistanbul:

“Art and Negotiation in Public Space”
31 August – 1 September 2007
The international project “The Public Turn in Contemporary Art” - led and realized by santralistanbul in cooperation with ArtBOX.gr from Thessaloniki, University of Art and Design Helsinki from Helsinki and Maison des Métallos from Paris - is a series of activities on the role of contemporary art in creative transformation and democratization of public space. The project, realized between 31 August – 31 October 2007, brings together artists, writers, art historians and theoreticians working on the subject. The theme will be discussed in three panels, artist talks, a documentation exhibition and a book.
speakers included:
Socrates Stratis
Hou Hanru
Jörgen Svensson
BikvanderPol
Superflex


Do you copy?, originally uploaded by superflexnet.

The artists group superflex who participated in the 9th Istanbul Biennial talked talked bout their project super channel and resulting community led project tenant spin and projects under the banner SUPER COPY.

Jörgen Svensson talked about his project Neighbourhood Secrets towards Stavangar 2008 city of culture and his excellent project Public Safety in 2000, in the small Swedish town of Skoghall where Two American Policemen, for which he invited two American policemen to the village, who patrolled the streets of Skoghall for two weeks in full uniform. The local community treated the two policemen like moviestars. Everyone wanted their autographs, and they were invited to appear on TV and radio talkshows.

Bik van der Pol talked about their current project for the biennial where they have selected walls/sites around the city on which to project the video programme Nightcomers. There is also a blog. The artists have mapped the locations for the screenings here on google earth.


Hou Hanru presented a couple of European projects he has been working on including his project for Luxembourg 2007 city of culture focusing on migration and UrbanLab 2007.

10th International Istanbul Biennial



This coming week Istanbul will be swamped with artists and curators from all over the world as the Visual Arts Biennial launches. The Biennial is organised by İstanbul Kültür Sanat Vakfı (İKSV)...

NOT ONLY POSSIBLE BUT ALSO NECESSARY, OPTIMISM IN AN AGE OF GLOBAL WAR

is curated by Hou Hanru. Hanru curated Z.O.U. - Zone of Urgency for the 50th Venice Biennale - this was a fantastic exhibition that included artists such as Young-Hae Chang, and Shu Lea Cheang.

The Istanbul biennial sounds just as promising...

Turkish coffee and lemon juice


I had no end of recommendations for my Ankara bellyache from my Turkish friends, including mixing a spoonful of Turkish coffee with lemon juice and eaten or taken like a pill. Apparently you will go to the toilet once more and after that you will be fine. I was also told that taking yogurt with a spoonful of tea mixed into it will do the trick.

By the time I was given this advice I was already on the mend after drinking coke and eating pro-biotic yogurts. Honestly it worked!

However take a look at the Turkish Culture portal if you want to find out more - medicinal remedies come under the folk knowledge section. For eczema the patient is advised to eat hedgehog meat, which apparently is good for epilepsy too. ummmhh!

Thursday, August 30, 2007

Belly Ache :-(

Today is Victory Day (Zafer Bayramı) in Turkey to commemorate the victory in the Battle of Dumlupınar, the final battle in the Turkish War of Independence in 1922.

It is a public holiday so I get a day off, but I have spent the entire day at home recovering from belly ache that I contracted during a trip I made to Ankara on Tuesday this week. Two other colleagues fell ill at exactly the same moment with the same symptoms, right after we had a coffee in the morning during a meeting. I think it is related to the recent water cuts put in place by the Ankara authorities during August as a number of colleagues in Ankara have also been ill over the last few weeks. Having just read this article in the Turkish Daily News I am not surprised...

The cases of infectious diseases has increased in Ankara especially after August 1, the day the water cuts began,” said Secretary General of Ankara Chamber of Medicine Ercan Yavuz in an interview with the Turkish Daily News.

According to him, water cuts are not a remedy because the hygienic and fresh water should be kept in the pipes. It should be chlorinated and consumption limited. Otherwise, health problems arise due to practices employed to save water and the pressure shifts in the pipes when the water flow restarts.

You should not drink the tap water in Turkey anyhow, but when you see murky water coming out of your tap you wonder about bathing in it too. Take a look at Idili's istanbul polluted water photo in flickr.

Football Focus

Beşiktaş and Fenerbahçe have both won a place in this years UEFA Champions League.
With just 17 days left in Istanbul it would be unfair to leave the city without having mentioned these beloved soccer teams. I have not had the pleasure of attending a football match here in Istanbul - although I was invited to attend the Beşiktaş match this weekend but my colleague has since blown me out! I am very disappointed, I live very close to the Beşiktaş stadium and enjoy the atmosphere as supporters arrive and depart from Taksim.

This post has also been prompted by Erkhan's field diary, a Besiktas fan, that points to this great site in english called TURKEY(TURKIYE) FOOTBALL(SOCCER)

The lights around the Fenerbahçe stadium are also something to behold.

Wednesday, August 29, 2007

Don't BLOCK the BLOG


DON’T BLOCK THE BLOG
strongly opposes any form of internet censorship, and requests the support of national and international bloggers, media, and free speech organizations to help our cause by continuing to highlight the issue of the unfair blanket ban of blogs.

Tuesday, August 28, 2007

the current blogosphere...

On the news that Abdullah Gul is officially the 11th President of Turkey I decided to report on some of my favorite blogs...

me and others - reverts to the recent rain fall in Istanbul rather than talk about Gul

ignore me if you can- in the posting farewell my pretty, the author feels so strongly that it has provoked her to leave Turkey.

The Istanbulian a fantastic site that I just discovered today, reports that Prime Minister Tayyip Erdogan official website was hacked 3 days ago.

Erkan's Field Diary as ever points to a number of interesting articles, including this one from the New York Times.

James in Turkey posts about day two thousand, six hundred and fifty-nine of Ahmet Necdet Sezer, former President of Turkey.

and finally here is the BBC's Have your say

Thursday, August 23, 2007

Mehmet Kavukçu


Mehmet Kavukçu, originally uploaded by louise makes stuff.

How cool is this! This is the work of the Turkish artist Mehmet Kavukçu in Eski Kilise /Zafer Meydanı, Çanakkale. The building is in fact a church in the gypsy area. This installation was part of the Troia Festival. The Arts projects were curated by Denizhan Özer and Seyhan Boztepe, under the title Borderline. I have uploaded my photos to Flickr.

Mehmet also made an installation on 2004 in the cistern in Istanbul. I found a photograph of it on the web - it looks amazing. Mehmet is based in Erzurum.

Wednesday, August 22, 2007

Geliblou

I visited Çanakkale Arts festival a few weekends ago and have only just got around to posting my photos on flickr. While I was there I took the opportunity to visit Gelibolu/Gallipoli battlefields. It was a memorable visit and I have enjoyed adding information from various websites about the cemeteries and monuments I visited.

Sites that were particularly informative include:
diggerhistory2
nzetc
wikipedia
e-turkey

Saturday, August 04, 2007

COWS



The Cow Parade is in town. The cows are gathering around shopping malls, major squares and attractions around Istanbul including Şişli, Nişantaşı, Harbiye, Beyoğlu, Bebek, Ortaköy, Sultanahmet and shopping malls; Kanyon, Akmerkez, Profilo, Metro City ve Cevahir. The cows arrived on August 1st and will leave on 31 October 2007 (1 Ağustos – 31 Ekim 2007). People seem to be intrigued by them, both locals and tourists. The last time I saw cow parade was in Athens, most of the ones on central Athens were trashed, partly due I believe to the student riots that had been taking place around the city last year.



Continuing the cattle theme, it has been reported by the BBC today that Gordon Brown has been called back from his holiday because of an outbreak of foot and mouth has been reported in Surrey, England.

Sunday, June 10, 2007

Urban regeneration ZONE

Roma neighbourhood of Sulukule awaits demolition. Sulukule situated in Fatih along the Golden Horn is one of the largest and central districts of Istanbul, in the heart of the city. Since it constitutes the old quarter of the city conquered by Mehmed II the Conqueror, even today it is also called as the "real Istanbul" or the "first Istanbul".

Human Settlement Association
is an NGO which is working as volunteer legal council for the people of the Sulukule in their case against the Fatih Municipality, in regards to the proposed urban renewal and gentrification of the gypsy settlement. They are also working to organize the Festival called 40 days and 40 nights, which will celebrate the rich cultural heritage of the Roma people of the Sulukule with music, arts and crafts, and festivities for the months of March and April.

Zaman Today 23 April concert


On the back of continuing scare mongering related to the fear of a pending earthquake in Istanbul, Sulukule renovation is used by
Housing Development Administration of Turkey (TOKI) to qualify for demolition. It could be interpreted as pressure to complete the Urban Regeneration Project for Istanbul City of Culture 2010 or simply an excuse to open the way for speculators to make a hefty profit. This situation is seen by the decision makers in black and white; Sulukule should be left as it is OR raised to the ground What is missing from this blinkered view is participatory decision making; taking into account the views and ideas of the communities that are effected. Decisions that should be made sensitively and for the benefit of the people and city.

The video below is from Sulukule online

interim security zones

Security zones could affect election in southeast, local politicians argue
On Thursday the military announced new “interim security zones" in the regions of Şırnak, Hakkari and Siirt in the face of cross-border raids by the outlawed Kurdish Workers' Party (PKK) that have claimed at least 10 lives this week alone. But the area also includes constituencies that will produce nine members of the next Parliament. Some locals say the security crackdown will hamper campaigning and robust political competition but elections officials at the Supreme Election Board (YSK) yesterday quickly dismissed the claim.
Iraq minister offers Turkey talks
Iraqi Foreign Minister Hoshyar Zebari has told the BBC his government is ready to discuss with Turkey how to deal with the PKK Kurdish separatists.
BBC's Sarah Rainsford in Istanbul said on Friday 8 June that Turkey has sent thousands of its troops to the border...

an that although many Turks would argue such a move would be fully justified politically, most fear the military would be dragged into a quagmire. Whilst a unilateral intervention might well win votes at the general election next month, our correspondent adds, analysts warn it would spell disaster for Turkey's relations with the US and EU in particular.

This week I have heard much talk of Turkeys role in The Greater Middle East Project I found this recent article in Turkish Daily News. And here is the map

Sunday, May 27, 2007

Turkish FILMS to watch


my mission for the next couple of weeks - further recommendations welcome...

Saturday, May 26, 2007

Press and Pressure

After this weeks suicide bomb in Ankara the Police are to be given 'terror authorisation'
Hürriyet reports the draft bill proposes:
- Authorisation of use of all types of human and technical resources and intelligence activities, including the use of cameras, voice recording facilities and the internet, to survey possible criminals. It was explained that this could also mean the ability to listen to telephone conversations without obtaining any prior permission.

- The police will be able to obtain fingerprints from anybody applying for a gun license, driving license or passport.

- The police will be able to carry out body searches and searches of cars, personal documents and personal effects after obtaining authority from the civil authorities.

Then from the UK...
The home secretary, John Reid, made clear yesterday he is prepared to declare a "state of emergency" to suspend key parts of the human rights convention if the law lords do not overturn a series of judgments that have weakened the anti-terrorist control order regime...... MPs fear the control order regime is in danger of becoming a public laughing stock since six of the current 17 terror suspects subject to orders have managed to disappear.
In the Guardian this week Press Repression in Russia and Turkey Growing

Yavuz Baydar, the ombudsman for the Sabah newspaper, spoke of a similar pattern of fear and self-censorship in Turkey following the murder of Hrant Dink in January this year.

Investigative reporting was disappearing. There was a sense of fatigue among editors. As many as 15 of Baydar's colleagues now had round-the-clock bodyguards: some had armoured cars and feared for their relatives.

Journalists, intellectuals and writers had become used to being jailed in Turkey, said Baydar. However, the murder of a leading commentator such as Dink was different: it was intended to unleash instability, polarise society and legitimise hatred.

Baydar said he could not pretend that the murder of Dink had resulted in solidarity among journalists. There had been a march of 100,000 mourners protesting at Dink's murder - but he had seen only one rival editor at the funeral, and no rival publishers or proprietors.

Sunday, May 20, 2007

Another weekend of Turkish flags

The 19th May is the Commemoration of Atatürk, Youth and Sports Day, or simply Atatürk Commemoration (Atatürk'ü Anma) or Youth and Sports Day (Gençlik ve Spor Bayramı). It is an annual national holiday to memorialize the start of the Turkish War of Independence.
Huge flags adorn many of the buildings in Istanbul to celebrate this significant day.







AND...

The BBC reports that:
Tens of thousands of Turks have massed in the city of Samsun in the latest demonstration in support of secularism. The crowds waved national flags and chanted slogans opposing any change to Turkey's secular political model. The protest in Samsun, a port on the Black Sea, followed huge rallies in Istanbul, Ankara and Izmir.Samsun was the place where Ataturk launched the country's war of independence against ruling powers after the end of World War I. Police estimated that about 50,000 people attended the rally, Reuters news agency reported.

Saturday, May 19, 2007

Istanbul-tattoed



I love living in Istanbul. I have been here since February 2007 and will return to London this September. I have joined a flickr group called ISTANBUL-TATTOED. I made my first posting this week of some graffiti I saw in Galata down Yüksek Kaldırım Cad. where all the music shops are. It is really worth taking a look at the Graffiti Research Lab blog.

Monday, May 14, 2007

All eyes on Izmir


Hundreds of thousands of pro-secular Turks gathered in the third largest city of Turkey on Sunday to protest against the Islamist-rooted government that they fear is working to raise the influence of religion on society and pressure the secularist center-left parties unite ahead of parliamentary elections set for July 22.

Organizers of the pro-secular rally estimated the participating crowd at around two million. This was the first ever rally which was staged simultaneously both on land and sea as scores of small ferry boats and fisherman boats packed with demonstrators joined the rally from the sea.

FROM TURKISH DAILY NEWS

This follows on from the rally in Ankara on 14 April the Istanbul in 29 April 2007